Cedar fence pickets are one of the best kept secrets in beginner woodworking. They are cheap, light, rot resistant and already cut to a handy width, which makes them perfect for a planter box. This plan turns six pickets and two 2x2s into a planter about 32" long, 12" wide and 16-1/2" tall, deep enough for herbs, flowers, lettuce or a compact pepper plant.
You only need straight crosscuts, so a miter saw or a circular saw with a speed square is enough. Every dimension below uses actual sizes, and the cut list was checked against real board lengths, including the saw kerf. If you are new to that idea, our guide on how to make a cut list explains it step by step.
At a glance
| Finished size | 32" long x 12" wide x 16-1/2" tall |
|---|---|
| Skill level | Easy: crosscuts, pilot holes and screws only |
| Time | 2 to 3 hours |
| Materials cost | About $50 to $100 (rough 2026 US prices, see the shopping list) |
| Soil needed | About 2-1/2 cubic feet of potting mix |
How the box goes together
Each wall is three picket boards stacked on edge. Four 2x2 posts sit inside the corners and hold everything together: the short end boards are screwed to the posts first, then the long side boards overlap the ends of the short boards and screw into the same posts. Two 2x2 cleats run along the inside bottom of the long sides, and four picket slats rest on the cleats to form a floor with drainage gaps.
Before you shop: check two measurements
The cut list assumes pickets that are 5/8" thick and 5-1/2" wide and cedar 2x2s that are 1-1/2" square. Those are the most common sizes, but pickets vary. Some are 1/2" or 11/16" thick, and some 2x2s are closer to 1-3/8". Measure a picket and a 2x2 at the store, then use these formulas if yours differ:
- Short boards (B) and floor slats (E): 12" minus two picket thicknesses. With 5/8" pickets: 12 - 5/8 - 5/8 = 10-3/4".
- Posts (C): three picket widths. With 5-1/2" pickets: 3 x 5-1/2 = 16-1/2".
- Cleats (D): 32" minus two picket thicknesses minus two post widths: 32 - 1-1/4 - 3 = 27-3/4". Best practice: measure between the posts after assembly and cut the cleats to fit.
Pick pickets that are flat and free of large splits and loose knots. Our guide to choosing wood shows how to sight down a board for bow and twist.
Tools
- Miter saw, or a circular saw with a speed square as a guide
- Drill/driver with a 7/64" or 1/8" drill bit for pilot holes
- Tape measure, combination or speed square, pencil
- Two clamps (very helpful when attaching the long sides)
- Staple gun (only if you add a fabric liner)
- Sanding block with 120 grit paper
- Safety glasses, hearing protection and a dust mask
Shopping list with rough costs
| Item | Qty | Rough cost |
|---|---|---|
| Cedar fence picket, 5/8" x 5-1/2" x 6 ft, dog-ear (one is a spare) | 6 | $4 to $8 each |
| Cedar 2x2 x 8 ft (actual about 1-1/2" x 1-1/2") | 2 | $7 to $14 each |
| Exterior screws, #8 x 1-5/8" (coated deck screws or stainless), 1 lb box | 1 | $9 to $14 |
| Landscape fabric, small roll (optional liner) | 1 | $8 to $15 |
| Total | About $50 to $100 |
Prices are rough 2026 US home center prices and change by region and season, so check your local store. Use coated exterior or stainless screws: plain steel screws rust outdoors, and the tannins in cedar can leave dark stains around them.
Cut list (actual sizes)
| Part | Name | Qty | T x W x L | Material |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Long side boards | 6 | 5/8" x 5-1/2" x 32" | Cedar picket |
| B | Short end boards | 6 | 5/8" x 5-1/2" x 10-3/4" | Cedar picket |
| C | Corner posts | 4 | 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 16-1/2" | Cedar 2x2 |
| D | Bottom cleats | 2 | 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 27-3/4" | Cedar 2x2 |
| E | Floor slats | 4 | 5/8" x 5-1/2" x 10-3/4" | Cedar picket |
Board layout
First square off the dog-eared end of each picket. Cutting about 1" to 1-1/2" from the tip usually removes the clipped corners, which leaves roughly 70-1/2" of usable board. The layout below allows 1/8" for every saw cut.
| Board | Parts | Used (with kerfs) | Left over |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pickets 1, 2 and 3 | A 32", A 32" from each | About 64-1/8" | About 6" each |
| Picket 4 | B x 6 at 10-3/4" | About 65-1/8" | About 5" |
| Picket 5 | E x 4 at 10-3/4" | About 43-3/8" | About 27" |
| Picket 6 | Spare for a split or miscut | ||
| 2x2 #1 (96") | C x 4 at 16-1/2" | About 66-3/8" | About 29" |
| 2x2 #2 (96") | D x 2 at 27-3/4" | About 55-5/8" | About 40" |
Check the math: four posts are 4 x 16-1/2 = 66", and six short boards are 6 x 10-3/4 = 64-1/2". Every board in the layout has at least 5" to spare, so a rough end or one bad cut will not ruin the plan.
Step by step
- Cut the parts. Cut identical parts together: clamp a stop block to your saw fence, or cut one part and use it to mark the rest. Label each part with its letter.
- Sand the edges. Pickets are often rough sawn on one face. Knock off splinters on the edges and ends with 120 grit. Decide which face goes out and keep it consistent.
- Build the two ends. Lay three B boards edge to edge on a flat surface, outside face down. Set a post (C) on top at each end, flush with the board ends and flush with the top edge of the top board and the bottom edge of the bottom board. Drill pilot holes and drive two screws through each board into each post, about 3/4" from the board end so they land in the middle of the post. That is 12 screws per end.
- Attach the long sides. Stand both ends up, posts facing in. Clamp the first A board in place so it covers the end of the B boards and sits flush with the outside of the end and the bottom edge. Drive two screws at each end into the post, about 1-3/8" from the end of the board (5/8" for the B board plus 3/4" to the center of the post). Keep these screws at a different height from the screws you drove in step 3 so they do not hit each other inside the post. Add the other two rows, then repeat on the other side.
- Check for square. Measure both diagonals across the top opening. If they differ, push gently on the long corners until they match.
- Install the cleats. Measure between the posts along the bottom of a long side and cut the cleats (D) to fit, about 27-3/4". Hold each cleat against the inside of the bottom A board, flush with its bottom edge, and drive three screws through the A board into the cleat.
- Add the floor. Drop the four slats (E) onto the cleats. Space them evenly, about 1-1/8" apart, with the same gap at each post. Drive two screws through each end of each slat into the cleat.
- Line it (optional). Staple landscape fabric over the floor and up the inside walls to keep soil from washing through the gaps. Do not use plastic sheeting: the box needs to drain.
- Place it, then fill it. Set the planter in its final spot before you add soil. Raising it on two pavers or bricks keeps the bottom dry and helps it last longer.
Filling and planting
The inside of the box measures about 30-3/4" x 10-3/4". If you fill to 1" below the rim, the soil is about 13-3/8" deep, which works out to roughly 2-1/2 cubic feet once you subtract the posts. Two 1.5 cubic foot bags of potting mix are enough with a little left over.
- Use potting mix, not garden soil. Garden soil packs down in containers and drains poorly.
- Skip the gravel layer. Garden extension services point out that a layer of gravel at the bottom of a container does not improve drainage. It actually raises the soggy zone higher into the soil.
- Water deeply, then let it drain. Water should run out of the floor gaps within a few minutes.
Finishing
Cedar does not need a finish. Left bare, it slowly weathers to a silver gray. If you want to keep the warm color, apply an exterior oil or stain to the outside faces only. If you plan to grow herbs or vegetables, leave the inside unfinished and follow the finish maker's label for any outdoor use near edible plants.
Safety notes
- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection when cutting. Cedar dust can irritate the nose, throat and skin, so wear a dust mask when cutting and sanding, and work outdoors or with good airflow.
- Support both sides of a board when crosscutting with a circular saw, but never let the cut close on the blade. Clamp the board and let the offcut fall free to avoid kickback.
- Keep your hands well away from the blade on short parts like B and E. Cut them from a longer board, not from short scraps.
- A full planter is heavy. Lift with your legs, and do not place it on a railing or a ledge where it could fall.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| A board split when screwing | No pilot hole, or a screw too close to the end | Drill pilot holes, move screws at least 3/4" in from the end, replace the board with the spare |
| Gaps at the corners | Posts not flush with the board ends | Loosen the screws, clamp the post flush, drive them again |
| The box rocks on the patio | Uneven ground or a post sticking out below the boards | Sand the post flush, or level the spot with pavers |
| Floor slats do not fit between the long sides | Pickets thicker or thinner than 5/8" | Measure the inside width and cut the slats to that length |
| Soil washes out of the bottom | No liner over the floor gaps | Add landscape fabric, which lets water through but holds soil |
Easy variations
- Taller box: add a fourth row of boards and make the posts 22" long. You will need one more picket for the extra A and B boards.
- Shorter box: cut the A boards to 24", the cleats to about 19-3/4" and use three floor slats. You will have lots of leftover picket for a second project.
- Top trim: screw a ring of picket strips flat on top of the walls for a finished look and a handy ledge.
More plans like this
If this is your first project, it pairs well with the other builds in our list of weekend projects under $50. Our free PDF 10 Beginner Weekend Woodworking Projects includes a smaller 24" cedar planter built from 1x6 boards, plus a raised garden bed, a step stool and a bookcase, each with a cut list in actual lumber sizes. When you are ready for a much bigger library, many readers like this large collection of woodworking plans, which covers garden projects, furniture and sheds.